The Woodall's in Alaska, June 4 - June 10

June 4 and 5, 2011

Our friend Chuck left by way of the water taxi, at 0730 to go to the Ketchikan Airport and return to California.  We were sorry to see him go.  Chuck and Jerry connect really well and problem solve similarly.  While I piloted/watched for logs, they dug deeper into the boat’s RayMarine navigation system.  We can now plot routes, rather than just proceeding from waypoint to waypoint.  This allows the autopilot to steer the boat.  As we’ve all said “Otto” is much better at holding a heading than any of us.  This doesn’t imply that we turn the boat over to Otto and walk away.  Nope.  Always gotta be watching for those pesky logs in the water!

After Chuck left it was time to do some chores!  Even on a boat they never end!  One of the items we checked off the list was a Coast Guard Auxiliary inspection of the boat.  This volunteer arm of the Coast Guard does voluntary vessel safety inspections.  These volunteers are usually retired guys with lots of boating experience, and, although they work from a checklist, the conversations are usually full of a wealth of information.  Of course we passed easily and now have our 2012 sticker. 

The low-pressure pump in the watermaker failed so we had a new one shipped to Ketchikan.  (This was remarkably easy to do!  Frontier Copy and Shipping Services is only about ½ mile from our marina and they’ll receive shipments and mail for a nominal fee).  While Jerry worked on that I defrosted the refrigerator!  Yup, back to doing that little chore.  I cannot remember the last frig I had that required such attention!

June 6

We left the Bar Harbor Marina at 1030, heading up the west arm of Behm Canal to Naha Bay, on the recommendation of our boating friends, Dale and Anita.  Heading north up Tongass Narrows, we passed right by Ketchikan Airport, where we could see both the little ferry parked as well as a floatplane waiting to transport passengers to some distance spot.

Our destination today was up the west arm of Behm Canal to Naha Bay.  It was a bouncy ride north past Ketchikan in Tongass Narrows.  Six foot seas and gusts of wind up to 25 knots.  This makes for a bouncy ride which none of us enjoy, but poor Smokey really hates all the motion!  

Once we turned into Naha Bay the seas settled down and we went all the way to the head of Naha Bay where we found a little US Forrest Service dock.  Given the wind, we thought this would be a great place to spend the night!

The CCC came through in 1937 and built wonderful trails…clear back to Heckman Lake and a fishing cabin.  It was amazing to see the amount of work that went into these boardwalk trails!  The bears seem to like the trails, too!  We saw 2 separate piles of bear scat and saw some “bear scrambles” down the hillside, but didn’t see any bears. 


It would have been quite an experience if we had met one on this boardwalk trail!

June 7

We were up and off early, hoping to miss windy conditions in Behm Canal.  We didn’t have too far to go, just a little further north and into Neets Bay.  The day was sunny and calm and we left on a rising tide, so the water current pulled us along…always a plus!

As we entered Behm Canal from Naha Bay we were contacted by SEAFAC Range Control.  This Navy department conducts sonar testing in this side of Behm Canal.  So somewhere under us…wayyyyyy under us…there might have been a submarine.  The canal is quite deep along here, almost 2000 feet deep according to our charts.  We were asked to idle for about 10 minutes at one point while underwater testing occurred.  Not a ripple on the surface, though!

Coming into Neets Bay we met a tug pushing a small barge full of construction equipment.  Wonder where he’s been and what he’s been working on!  Without roads, a lot of transportation and just day to day living are supported by all kinds of boats.  

This is a fairly large bay so we also saw several fishing boats at work.  The boat in this photo is a gill netter and when we talked to him, he told us he was fishing for king salmon.  Hmmmm, might be time to try our hand at fishing!

         We stopped in the middle of the bay and just floated.  Jerry tried his hand at fishing but didn’t have a nibble until he was reeling in his line to stop and eat lunch.  All of a sudden he got a serious pull on the line and actually pulled up a king salmon!  Of course, it was way too small to keep, but our first salmon, nonetheless!

         We pulled in to Fire Cove, off Neets Bay after lunch and found another magical place.  We pulled into the cove at low tide and it was a good thing!  There, right in 




front of us, was a huge rock that wasn’t on our charts!  Okay, note to self:  when pulling in to a small area, entering on low tide is a plus.  This will let us see all the hazards.  It was particularly important for us since we planned to anchor here overnight.

         We situated Cosmo Place in the middle of this little cove and anchored in about 40’ of water.  Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful!  Once we were settled, we got the dinghy down and went for a ride.  We drove to the head of Neets Bay to explore the structures we could see in the distance.  We found a fish hatchery…the sign says it all.  It contained a large area at the head of the bay.  We spoke with one of the folks maintaining the logs to support the nets.  They hatch fish here and then release them into the ocean to maintain the fishing industry.  Amazing industry in this very remote corner of SE Alaska!

Here’s a great photo of Jerry driving the dinghy with the snowy Alaskan mountains in the background.  On the water, behind Jerry, you can see the fish hatchery dock.  As you can see we had a glorious afternoon…sunny, beautiful blue skies, and the temperature must have been approaching 70!

         Back to the boat for a peaceful evening watching the eagles hunt for dinner.  We’re approaching the summer solstice so our hours of sunlight are amazing.   Sunrise was 0406 and sunset was 2130!  Pre-dawn light starts about

0330…sad that I know that!

June 8, 2011

         We were off at 0630, again anticipating wind in Behm Canal and interested in getting to our next stop, Meyers Chuck, before the weather kicked up!  SEAFAC was quiet this morning, so we wouldn’t have to worry about subs and their SONAR testing.  About 0900 as we moved south down the canal, we heard from the US Coast Guard Cutter, Anacapa, telling us that they were “protecting” a naval asset and everyone must stay at least 1000 yards off.  Hmmmm, very curious!  It wasn’t long before we could see both the cutter and the “asset” being protected…a sizeable submarine on the surface of the water!  It was rather interesting to watch from afar!  The cutter and the submarine casually cruised back and forth on the west side of Betton and Grant Islands.  Do you think the submariners just needed a breath of fresh air?

         Today’s destination is Meyer’s Chuck, up Clarence Strait.  We’ve heard that this is a lovely little stop on our way to Wrangell and we’re always curious to see these little stops. 

As we cruised up the strait, we saw an active logging operation on Cleveland Peninsula.  This is the first logging operation we’ve seen in business.  Looks like a lot of work!  We could see the tower on the ridge that they use to move the logs around, as well as the little barge receiving the logs.

One of our biggest worries as we cruise down the waterways is hitting a log.  We’ve heard lots of horror stories about bent props and damaged hulls.  Because logging is so prevalent in the Northwest, British Columbia and Alaska, we’re always watching.  The photo is really one of a floating TREE and we've seen lots of those, too.  It could ruin our whole day if we hit one of those!

         We arrived in Meyers Chuck shortly after noon and tied up to the (free, yippee!) public dock.  We saw our old friends from Punch Bowl Cove, Sea Wolf, anchored in the little bay.  We had no electricity available but plenty of water.  After a 10-minute tour of the little community, we came back for lunch.  Jan worked on her blog and Jerry washed the boat.

         Notice the very tall pilings holding the dock?  Huge tides here!  Even more so now as the summer solstice approaches.  Just to the right of Cosmo Place, you see the open dock parallel to ours.  That's the float plane dock!  We saw one come in, stop for 5 minutes to pick up one passenger, and off he went again.  Rather impressive flying!

         The boat parked in front of us is a 42’ Rockport, made in British Columbia.  Only two exist.  According to the owner, the company went out of business.  Too bad!  It’s a pretty boat…looks a lot like an American Tug. The owners are headed home to Blaine, WA, after cruising up here since the first of April.  Hardy souls!

         A Meyers Chuck-ite walked by as we were looking at the community bulletin board and very proudly pointed out this phone booth with the working phone.  Notice the birds nest on top…can you place a call if mama is sitting on her eggs?

Meyers Chuck also has a post office, across the little bay from the dock where we are moored.  There is a postal drop box next to this little phone…very convenient for visiting boaters.  Pick up is every Tuesday!

         Jerry is standing by a tidal grid.  This is an open platform that is underwater at high tide.  You position your boat over the grid and tie to the uprights, at high tide.  The tide goes out, and your boat is now sitting on this open platform!  A cheap, simple way to haul your boat out of the water.  Work fast, though!  You’ve only got a few hours until the tide comes in again.

June 9

         We departed Meyers Chuck about 0830 and proceeded up Ernest Strait.  Our destination tonight was Frosty Bay on Seymour Narrows.  We had a bit of a bouncy ride for the first hour…2’ seas hitting us on our aft port quarter…makes for a rather rolly ride.  The cat was decidedly unhappy!

         We anchored in Frosty Cove about 100’ from shore in about 40’ of water.  We think we’ve got this anchoring thing down pretty good, but always worry about whether the anchor will hold.  We’re so used to the muddy, grabby bottom of the San Juans and the deeper anchorages up here have sand and gravel bottoms.  So, we diligently survey the bottom in the area where we will anchor and swing.  We set out at least 4:1 scope…that’s a lot of chain!  Then we track the GPS coordinates for awhile to be sure we’re not dragging the anchor.  After we’ve shut down the boat systems and settle in, we have many conversations that go like this:

         Jerry:  “I think we’re closer to shore.”

         Jan:  “Let me check the GPS coordinates.  (Pause as Jan runs to the pilothouse).  We’re only 0.003 off the coordinates I wrote down when we anchored.”

         Jerry:  “Yeah, looks okay, I guess.  I’m sure we’re fine.”

Ten minutes elapse.

         Jan:  “We’re sure swinging a lot.  Do you think we’re getting closer to shore?”

         Jerry:  “Let me go check the GPS numbers again.  (Pause as Jerry runs to the pilothouse).  Nope, numbers are the same as when we anchored.  Must be the tide going out.”

         You get the idea, I’m sure!  This goes on until bedtime.  At this point Jerry is either exhausted from all Jan’s fretting or truly believes we’re ok and goes to sleep!  Jan spends a semi-restful night wondering if we’re dragging the anchor! 

June 10

We were up at 0530 and on the way by 0545 to catch the tide as it flooded north to Wrangell.  We were tied up at the Reliance Dock by 1000 in Wrangell and are ready to explore the town.  That exploration and points beyond, including our next stop, Petersburg, will be in the next blog.